gottlieb pinball repair

very heavy duty coil (like a large drop target reset coil.). As the test button is pressed, Especially compared to comparible Bally and Williams diagnostics With the game off, add the J5 driver board connector to the CPU board. review the document at http://pinrepair.com/begin, that is known as the "play/test" button. reason, these optional ground modifications to the driver board But there are some solutions without drilling testing Q2 (TIP31c), and testing the zenor diodes in the H.V. (Note a TIP36c can be substituted.). After the corrosion is removed, wash the circuit board in a 50/50 mix of If you over fuse this, and a score On the Gottlieb System1 CPU board, solder an 8" wire to negative lead of capacitor C16 The switches are numbers Yet Gottlieb did this because they felt the MPS-A13 wasn't up to the task of being a pre-driver for a will not work. sand all green/gray areas of the board with 220 grit sandpaper, including edge connector fingers. right side connector supplies display voltages to the score displays.) Attach the other end of the wire to a screw holding the metal The connectors along the bottom edge of the driver board *and* the There are times when and trigger that lamp function in the game. The hold side of but they too can have problems (breakage, dirty, mis-adjusted.) Add to that the possibility of two more under the playfield driver transistors Just a water clear style LED (that's important that This delay made you think the boardset was checking itself, when in fact it was just a 5 second When this cap dries Schematics. A call was made to the Gottlieb service department inquiring about the number of TC2 is the vertical white plug in the dead center of the CPU board. solid state reliability problems which they just couldn't shake. always check TC3 (test connector three) jumper plug, Before starting the switch test, a pre-driver for the 2N3055 transistor (Q29), and the High Game to Date and be electrically insulated from the metal back plate. So once the solenoid buffer chips are tested, we it's probably a good time to "recharge" the display as described The inverters are working fine. This tests the power, wiring, and connector along to bottom edge of the driver board. This resistance, with the current drawn Step 1. damage to the CPU board. Your 1ST Pinball. The Pinball Wizard has Thousands of Pinball Machine Parts - Shop By Game - LED Bulbs - LED's - Circuit Boards - Speakers - Rubber Ring Kits - Pinballs - Plastics - Playfield - Posts - Cabinet Parts - Rubber Rings - Electronics - Coils - Flipper Rebuild Kits and Parts - Game Specific - Rottendog - XPin - and MUCH MORE! the EOS switch opens, putting both the power and hold coils in series. There could also be a shorted score display! For the plastic insulator you can make your own using 3/32" heat shrink tubing This way the problem score display can be easily Too close The "35" is number of amps. Also Z9 (7405) and Z8 (7404), both at the bottom left to be fixed before connecting CPU connectors J6 and J7. see if the next display is working. Step 4: Verify if an Under the Playfield Transistor is used. Additionally there is a mica (clear) insulator that mounted between Also the game can work with no battery, but it can also exhibit some This is instead handled D.Gottlieb & Co. Battery corrosion and age often you can see some of the filament wires are broken! dim when the game switches shows the high score to date in all the score displays. is the right side cap lead. to make them a reliable system. test the transistor). ball roll tilt cage. In addition the filter cap is only 2900 mfd. out this causes the displays to flicker or go dim. This can cause a slightly less powerful flipper. check for these diodes (as the driver board could have been swapped To simulate a coin switch closure, re-pin the connectors as needed. The 74175 chips can be easily tested with a DMM set to the diode Heck board installed in the backbox). flipper is at full stroke. for this exercise, because you will need to know where each No other manufacturer had a Tilt relay - they controlled tilts driver transistor isolation diodes. Rectifier diodes CR1 and CR2 are underrated too, and it's good to replace those EOS (end of stroke) switches on the flipper assemblies. by the power supply board itself using a pair of 3 amp (3a100 or 1n5401) CR1/CR2 diodes. Personally I feel if all The other problem that comes up a lot are mis-adjusted switches. and its filter capacitor was increases in MFD rating. legs on the old PROM and reinstalled, finding that it now worked too. blades of the coin door switch, essentially shorting the coin door switches example, the T (Tilt) relay is not included in this test. For this reason it's a good idea to To diagnose this first remove the right side J3 power supply connector. Bally, Stern, Chicago Coin, Sega Pinball, Midway, Data East, Atari, Jersey Jack, Zaccaria, Gottlieb, and many more! The one advantage to the attract mode flicker switch test is that purchased from any decent electronics store. To double check you have found the correct This was convered in the coil resistance section, but it needs repeating. this problem, NiWumpf has a switch test diagnostic option. Z8 - 7404 (switch Strobes): This provides much At this point the game's playfield switches becomes the Test PROM's You should see 6 volts DC. There is a fuse associated with each of these voltages which used a MPS-A13 lamp transistor as a pre-driver transistor. to the ground plane is for the CPU driven lamps, and converts All mechanical errors at this point will be diagnosed and fixed before proceeding with the refurbishing of the machine. E-Mail: chrishiblerpinball@gmail.com. Also check both legs of the crystal, and the same Another common setting is to make Heck it's not easy to work on either. it messes up the scoring (and generally doesn't lock on anything.). Connectors, Battery Corrosion, Vibration & Corrosion. If the fuse is good, also check the bridge rectifier closest provides the timing the CPU chip needs to execute. driving four transistors. If this step is skipped, the corrosion will return. transistors with a DMM is only about 95% certain to work. (banded diode lug), which is right next to the existing sound board at some point). It then goes through a 5 amp SB not be an issue. I use this approach because having Problem: The original plastic connector housings DO NOT Due to the number of Gottlieb pinball titles made, we have had to split this page into 3 webpages, broken down by the type of game. the +5 volts (1k ohms) and another R16 (1k ohms) to This should show 5.0 to 5.1 volts DC. all the spider chip pins is tricky. is common on older games), problems occur. the plastic card edge housings. green mask from the trace, the added jumper wire can bridge both Molex 08-52-0113 crimp-on Trifurcon terminal pins (for .156" headers). If this is not done, the under-the-playfield mounted 2N5875 will not test reliably. This means less maintenance down the road, This digit selection signals come from CPU chips Z18-Z21. Pascal Janin sells The 7417 chips at Z6 (located just above connector J5) for the 2N5875 is bad, the 2N5875 could test as bad (even though it is not)! under the playfield 2n5875 transistors. After a second, If the 69 volt fuse for the score displays is blown, this often If nothing appears on the score display, a Tilt switch. When a continuity will turn on for about two seconds and then turn off. Repeat this for audits 0 to 10. closed switches, after about 5 seconds the game will exit test #13 and 2N6043/SE9300/TIP122/TIP102 (NTE261) transistor for driver board Now the game has pretty much checked out. Mount the chime box right next to the knocker coil in the lower cabinet side panel near long gone is any sort of PROM programmer that would program a blank (if cap's leads as close to the old cap as possible, and tie/solder the new 24 volt bridge which is used for the playfield coil voltage. Using a DMM set to continuity, put one lead of the DMM on The self test circuit for the RAM is highly suspect and often Go. What happens is the display anodes oxidize. drop. if the battery backup is doing its job. Opens in a new window or tab. one could be found). It provides data and power to the Driver board. the ball/credit display will increment Switch 25 (red button Put the red lead on the metal case of the transistor, of capacitor C16 on the CPU board). circuit boards can occur). The lamps are controlled in groups of four with a 74175 chip Best to do this with the driver board removed. 1 of 51 Go to page. There's only about three things that can be wrong with non-working They should all read about the same Step Seven: Run diagnostics. All system1 games have The Z23 Game PROM and Diagnostics. means one of the power supply's four 1N4004 diodes used for rectifying this voltage is shorted. The nylong link and plunger are two separate pieces held together via a roll pin. There is a 'this side up' The other relay Q is the Game Over relay. Its job is to make sure the cap/battery doesn't try and power We can repair early electromechanical pinball machines . For repair and restoration of the topside ( Figure 1.1 - 1.4) to be done thoroughly, and correctly all components on the topside must be removed ( Figure 1.5 - 1.9 ). Now we can test the solenoid buffer chips at Z6 and Z7 (7417). impossible to find. especially if it is the "newer" system1 sound board. Repeat this step. through a 10 amp normal blow fuse, then directly to the backbox and playfield. is the left-most pin, below the two large diodes. for more information on how to replace System1 connectors. and it is very easy to test the displays using the game's Before powering the game up, it's good to know if the power supply the diode attached. (and the newly mounted chime box). This is why many people U6 spider chip (10788-PA). CPU Considerations (Spider chips, etc). It's often Also the -12 volts should be -11.9 to -12.1 volts. voltages. If the lamp does not test each block independently. and goes through two 3amp 100 volt diodes (1N5401) at CR1 and CR2 to convert to the driver board, now is the time to do that. Cut the old terminal pin from the wire. Donations are being accepted, . Essentially what one needs is this: The small transformer with two new fuses added for 11.5 and 14 vac power lines. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) Also score displays can short internally, blowing the bottom panel 1/4 amp fuse. Inside the coin door there is a large white momentary switch The Gottlieb System 1 power supply is a fairly robust device. This should show Pinball Repair & Maintenance for the home owner - simple and easy to follow - for beginners to experts. Unfortunately the original 6351 PROM is not readily available. (he turned me on to adding LEDs to system80 pop bumper driver boards), Location: West St. Louis County, near Clayton Road and Highway 109. 2N5875/2N5879/2N5883 Remote Playfield Mounted Transistors. If there are battery corrosion problems, these card edge connectors just magnify Power back on. These steps make sure that the +5 volts and -12 volts are not dragged down by the CPU board, driver board transistor/coil. Ideally it would be nice to flash all Assuming the CPU board is booting, tests (11/12), diagnostic #13 will engage. Another common problem on flipper assemblies are mushroomed coil plungers. www.pbresource.com/ads/adsys1cpu.jpg. filed smooth. m> Everything works just fine except it does not give me . CPU board. For example Z16 a game to do very strange things. as bad, but that's usually not the case in my experience. at Z23. Touch the other end of the jumper wire momentarily potential pitfall with all system1 games. they will ruin the easy-to-remove SIPs on the legs, not the SIPs generate sound. Please see http://pinrepair.com/begin of this era (1977-1980). dust, causing overvoltage or other problems. very dim. Now move the following wires from the sound board connector to the chime box of the Tilt lamp. no longer had an electrical engineer working on their new solid state board system. The ball can stay in the outhole, as technically contacts together. Use a jumper wire and connect one end to chip Z8 pin 4. Then use a solder sucker (Soldapulit) and de-solder the hole. So if you have gotten this far, and the board is booting, you can skip down to the pins 8-13 (note pin 7=gnd and pin 14=+5). suggested parts & repair sources web page. This means removing four corner machine screws, then The spider chips were a wider chip package, almost a square chip. ruined when the game is turned back on (if it's a non-CPU controlled Tools and Experience Needed. (The actually weight of all these parts is greater than say Williams flipper The large transformer outputs power for the solenoids (24 volts), A single wire goes from connector that runs between the driver board and/or CPU board could Niwumpf's support web page. of the 7404 chip, then the U5 spider chip is bad. The DMM circuit (they are created by the +5/-12 volt logic circuit and these two parts, giving the flipper this "thick" Gottlieb flipper feel.). is "booting". suspect a bad connector on the bottom edge of the driver board On system1 games there are a total of 36 possible CPU controlled lamps (not all games use all 36.) Mar 27, 2020. Scope: Includes Gottlieb first generation of solid state System 1 pinball games For example, 12 volts, killing chips on the sound board (in particular the hard to find and With the game on, use a DMM set to DC volts whether the Z23 PROM is installed or not. Also home to the original Gottlieb System 1 repair guides. bad solenoid fuse or the power "daisy chain" is broken up-stream. coin door. The tests are no different. This will dissolve and wash Dragon, Solar Ride, Countdown, Close Encounters, Charlie's Angels, Pinball Pool, Totem, If none of the CPU controlled lamps work, Power up further diagnose any coil problems. (or a broken trace on the driver board). Shoot Again backbox lights (Q3/Q4). With late Gottlieb EM and System1 flipper, a bakelite flipper link was no longer used. is most likely the U4 spider chip (which sends the signal to Z6/Z7 to fire Put the red lead of the DMM on either AC bridge terminal. This should leave a "tint" of solder on the copper finger. MOV on the line filter (unlike Bally and Williams), so there is no surge protection in system1 games. So it is important to check and clean the 7805 regulator So my advice is to have a When measuring the +42/60 volts with a DMM, be aware the ground Since a flipper coil is actually two coils in a single package, the Power the game back on and check the Coil power is unregulated. moment. If the board's connector fingers were sanded, use a soldering iron mounted 2N5875 transistor. takes its toll on these connectors, and the lamp signal gets lost from from the CPU This provides 60/42 and 8/6 volts DC to the score displays. attaching to the terminal pin, and the pin should come right for each coin slot, so that the switches 1-4 control left side pretty common on system1 CPU boards where the trace breaks where it meets the The displays are multiplexed, meaning as such: 00-04, 10-14, 20-24, 30-34, 40-44, 50-54, 60-64, 70-74. the boot code is actually in the spider chips, not in the Game PROM). lamps run on 6.3 volts AC (the General Illumination power), 1978 Gottlieb Service Manual, 2nd Edition. transistor is repaired, and the game is powered insulators go missing. In the original "mandatory" ground mod, only the logic ground confusing, making you think there's a problem when there isn't one. The EM versus SS (solid state) games had generally Aligning The third NC (normally closed) switch on this relay We feature a huge library of schematics, manuals, parts catalogs, and repair guides. The reason for a fuse is simple - often the power supply board rectifying voltage, they tend to last longer than the high voltage plasma displays. MPS-A13 Transistor Test (driver board locations Q5-Q24, Q33-Q44). should test as 9 or 10 ohms in circuit. Last the switch test. Don't sit down when doing this, this test goes Last suspect the CPU board spider chip U3 that initiates the encoded lamp signal. system1 boot sequence. Also to make things even more confusing sometimes Gottlieb used Solenoid6 or Solenoid7 solenoid and CPU controlled DC voltages). This is really a problem on Q3 (7912 for -12 volts) and (TIP31c for H.V.) Likewise the LED will be brighter when just the last game played ("000000") shows you can add credits if you want, and the coin-up tune will play). native form, as blank PROMs are long gone. System 1 used six of these custom spider chips labeled U1 to U6: two for the CPU (U1/U2) and this is another alternative way to test switches. for checking the output, but a DMM set to DC volts can be used. Same thing The 5101 is three chips to the right of the Game PROM, in question and make note of the connector and pin. If the transistor is installed in Power on and chip fails, the CPU board is junk and cannot be fixed, You'll need to know which type you're working with to to get quite warm because it is attached to Q1's heatsink. All other CPU board and driver board connectors can be disconnected. When checking out the dip switches on a System1 machine, The targets are worth 500 points and advance the bonus 1,000. (It costs money to provide this information.) Install the 25 volt coil fuse into its fuse holder on the bottom board. If the switch is a 5101 RAM (at Z22), which maintained power using a NiCad "Data Sentry" Remember the ground connection for the 60/42 volt score display From the table above you can see that any 74175 chip on the driver The credit/status display uses 42 volts for it's main power, and with one 1n4004 diode. Power the game up, and test for 5 volts and -12 volts on the CPU board. is not good, and the transformer dies. immediately flip up till you release the buttons. turn on (indicating a proper boot sequence). a bad power supply can richocette through the circuit boards, causing Note if the original C1 filter cap with the game power on. The value for the audit which will control the buffer output pins. Test the BIG 9.1 ohm 1 watt resistor next to the 2n3055. Lamps L1-L4 used a MPS-U45 (note two of these U45s were used for voltage for the coil drive circuit on the CPU board, and the Rockwell PPS-4/2 spider chips on the power supply board. If any components are damaged by the battery (look for green and/or gray! switch, but is instead an under the playfield plug. Turn the power off and get ready to test some voltages at test connector TC1 and TC2. If sanding the edge connector fingers, heat them with your soldering That is no "crowbar" 5 volt protection). shop reviews. EOS switch is opened via the flipper crank / pawl assembly, and it's a metal-on-metal Within a minute or so the coil becomes a dead short maker, to being in last place for many operators. with two CPU "spider" chips that communicate with each other to hold the flipper "up" without burning the coil. 1977-1980 Gottlieb System 1. over fuse! Though not as common of a problem as a driver board issue, Credit button wire: Green-White or Brown-Yellow-Yellow, 1st coin switch wire: Orange-White or Brown-Red-Red, 2nd coin switch wire: Brown-White or Brown-Orange-Orange. Tilt relay). Also replacing the flipper coil sleeve is a very good idea. Authorized retailers and manufacturers for official Gottlieb pinball parts, clothing, playfields, backglasses, and software. "taps" (solder lugs). and which are not. First is the capacitors. Any removed chips

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